Supers & Resident Managers Technical Association

Question #842: I am looking for a class that I would be able to take to help me understand boiler systems and to install them. What classes are there in New York City. Post your answer

Answer: NYC College of Technology in Downtown Brooklyn has a whole department, "Environmental Control Technology) with up-to-date boiler lab, etc. Go to www.citytech.cuny.edu and check it out. None better in these parts. Dick Koral

Answer: Housing Conservation Coordinators (HCC) and the Association for Energy Affordability (AEA) are two New York City organizations giving good classes on understanding boiler systems. Contact them and ask if they can also help you find out where to learn about installing boiler systems. When you do find out, let us know so we can print the information here. Glen Stoltz

Question #841: Our roof, installed in 1990 with Brai RubberoidMB roofing process and a final layer of Karmak Alumninum Coating, has developed some bulges that appear to be filled with water. The two bulges can be seen at this link: http://homepage.mac.com/x2fastforwardx/PhotoAlbum2.html. What do you recommend? Post your answer

Answer: There are several issues with your roof. The immediate cure for the blistering is simple. The roofer would cut out the defective section (if the insulation is wet, that too would need to be cut out) and a new section installed. What caused this condition is the real problem. From what I can see in the pictures is the water is going under the roof from the side walls, from the metal capping. There is NO flashing and where there was, it was covered over. The walls need to be addressed. Peter Grech, GBOC

Question #817: I have lived in my rent controlled pre-war apartment for 34 years. The electrical wiring here is a joke -only two outlets in the whole place outside of the kitchen. I would like to have the wiring redone since I don't intend to leave anytime soon. I'm assuming I will have to hire an electrician and pay for it all myself. Do I need the landlord's permission to get a permit to have the work done? Can he refuse me when I'm only trying to bring the apartment up to code? Post your answer

Answer: Yes, Landlords permission is needed. Yes, he can refuse you. He can also say that he will have his electrician do the electrical upgrade, and increase your rent by 1/40 of the cost, but only with your permission. Renters have to keep in mind that while it's their apartment to rent, the apartment is still the property of the owner. You mentioned you wish to bring it up to code, it is up to code for the year it was built. Lets face it, you want to make these "improvements" not for the landlord's benefit but rather your own, as you stated you are not going to move. Peter Grech, GBOC

Question #816: Will TRVs work for steam radiators inside a wall covered by a metal cover with vents? Post your answer

Answer: Not exactly sure what a 'TRV' is. If this is one of those automatic room temperature control valves, you have two options. For single pipe steam radiators you must put this valve on the air vent, not on the steam valve to the radiator. If you have two pipe steam (with a trap on the radiator), then you can use this type of valve. However, piping is important or water hammer may result. Please post again with more details of your application and I will try to answer in more detail. Joe Lambert, Leonard Powers

Question #810: I own a 2nd floor condo and about 6-8 months ago my super came to me and let me know there was water dripping down into the 1st floor unit. We found the problem, and it was fixed. I went down there about 2 days later and asked if there was still water coming into his unit? He said it wasn't. Just the other day I get a call from the actual owner of the unit, she tells me that there is damage in the bathroom and that I have to fix it. My question is, since I didn't know there was damage and 6-8 months have passed since this accord, am I still liable for the damage? Post your answer

Answer: First of all, was the leak inside the wall or outside of the wall. Second, check you propriety lease. Most of the time, leaks inside the walls on what is call common use piping is the responsibility of the building to fix the leak as well as any damages. If it was outside the wall as in leaky pipe under your sink etc, then these items mostly are the owners responsibility to repair as well as any damage. If you paid for the repair to the plumbing then mostly you will have to pay for its repair. As for 8 months later, well fair is fair, if you are responsible for the repair, then just have it replaced. Lastly, as always our answers are just our opinions and any legal questions should be referred to an attorney. Peter Grech, GBOC

Question #803: This question is related to Question #613. We have a serious rust corrosion condition at the base of our 18" six-story steel chimney stack. Our neighboring building's system has been merged into our stack for over 25 years. We've recently discovered they have installed a high condensing heating system that will surely disintegrate our already compromised stack. If they hedge (as they have been) on footing the bill for repair or separating their high condensing emissions, can we repair our base and cut them off to prevent accelerated corrosion? If so how do we go about this expeditiously? Post your answer

Answer: First of all, you have to establish that the chimney is owned by your building. Second, you need to establish if the building next door has ever received permission to share it. If you own the chimney outright, the cost of repair / replacement is yours. I cannot understand how permission to do what you have said was done. I don't believe a permit was given. You need to try to find out if there ever was a permit granted. I have not heard of sharing of a chimney. Beware trying to work this out before calling the Department of Buildings - once they come in, their findings will be final. If no permission and no permit was given, then your building has the upper hand. Peter Grech, GBOC

Question #798: The boiler in our small co-op is a Weil McLain 169-75 BL 586 (oil burner Carlin 701, 185). The boiler was installed in 1976 the burner in 1997. A recent hole in the jacket and small leaks that may be coming from the coils and / or gaskets inside may mean the boiler is nearing the end of its useful life. I'm told that it could last through another heating season or two, but we want to prepare to make an informed choice about replacing it. Can you give me some advice about how to do that? Is there a source of information that would be useful to lay people like our co-op members? Post your answer

Answer: The Boiler Site, Master Plumber, Weil-McLain, or call a local heating consultant. Glen Stoltz

Question #796: I own my co-op apartment and have been having some electrical problems. However, our super has informed me that everything from the circuit breaker box, to the wiring in my apartment, to the outlets are my responsibility to repair and maintain. Is this correct. If so, what is the co-op responsibility? Post your answer

Answer: The answer to your question is in your proprietary lease. It is common for all the electrical wiring, from the meter in the basement on up, is the shareholder's responsibility regardless of it's being inside or out of the walls - but check your lease.

Answer: If you wanted to change from a fuse box to a circuit breaker you would be responsible (you would have to pay the electrician) but if you have faulty wiring in your walls meaning that the wires were worn and frayed, since they are inside the wall, the responsibility of replacing the wiring would be the co-op's and the same can be said about the plumbing. Roberto Cardona

Question #786: I live in a two-floor condo, on the first floor. Every time my upstairs neighbor shuts his kitchen faucet off, I get a loud water hammer bang above my kitchen in the pipes. After doing research on Google, I think the solution is an air arrester or valve. Is this right? Also, can I install it myself? Last, will it solve the water hammer from upstairs if install it down here where I have access to the main line (under my sink) or does it have to be installed in the upstairs apartment? I would rather not have to touch their plumbing or bother them. Post your answer

Answer: You will need to get a plumber involved to give you the best advice, but it looks like you may be on the right track.

Question #782: I had a contractor, recommended by Home Depot, install a boiler 5/18/06, in the Bronx in a two family house, that had only one boiler to heat the whole house. I have 2 tenants. One apartment is a duplex, where the boiler is connected. The smaller apartment's heating usage was being included in the duplex apartment ConEd bill. I decided to install a boiler for the smaller apartment, that way each tenant is responsible for their own bill. I was informed that once the installation is completed, the contractor / plumber has to obtain a blue card with the Buildings Department. I was also told by ConEd, that they must inspect the installation before they install a gas meter. I am having a hard time getting the contractor to complete the paper work. The boiler was installed, but with no meter. The contractor said that I was responsible to get a plumber. I told him if that is the case, I would have gone to Home Depot myself, got the boiler, and then hired a plumber. I was charged $4,700.00 for this job. I want to complete the job before the cold weather sets in. What can I do? I called Home Depot and they contacted the company and he keeps telling them that he would help me get a plumber. I am wondering whether the installation was done by an unlicensed plumber. I don't know what is going on. I need guidance. Post your answer

Answer: Let me suggest that you contact GBOC for assistance. -Glen Stoltz

Question #781: I have a duplex apartment. The bedroom closet on the second floor that is adjacent to the bathroom, develops some form of mold / mildew on the walls. I am wondering if the problem is from improper ventilation from the bathroom. there is no window in the bathroom. It has been suggested that possibly the vent is circulating through the wall as opposed to having a vent connected outside. I have stopped using the vent in the bathroom, to see if the problem stops. I do have a dehumidifier that helps somewhat, but running it can be costly. When the closet door is closed, a foul odor sets in. Do you have any suggestion that might be permanent. Post your answer

Answer: Without someone looking at your space in person it is impossible to give an accurate answer. I suggest you hire Grech Building Operations Consulting or someone similar to help you. -Glen Stoltz

Question #776: Can suds coming up into our tub be caused because we live on top of a laundry room. The super is requesting an inspection of the apartment on the second floor, says there is a washing machine. Isn't this a drain / plumbing problem? Post your answer

Answer: If you see suds in your tub, then some one most likely above you has a washing machine. In old buildings, drains are not designed for washing machines. Thus the excessive water when dumped at one time into a drain has to go somewhere. Now, if there is a specific laundry room near you, then the drains should be snaked on a regular basis. Peter Grech, GBOC

Question #775: What are the proper steps in cleaning a Kewnee dual fuel boiler? Post your answer

Answer: Using Google (http://www.google.com) or other popular search engine, search on the words "Kewanee dual fuel boiler" (with or without the quotations marks); when you get to some relevant websites that come up, try a site search using the word cleaning or "boiler cleaning" or something similar. You'll be surprised what you will find that will be helpful to you. Glen Stoltz

Question #773: Every Summer I experience this problem. I have a very bad odor is coming out from the radiator in my apartment. Please help me with some information and what can I do to resolve the problem. Post your answer

Answer: If you have a one pipe system, there should be an air valve on the upper end on the radiator. Simply turn this air vent upside down and you will have no more odor. If you have a two pipe system then you will have NO air vent, but then a two pipe system is completely contained and no order should come out of it. If you have a two pipe radiator (one pipe going in at one end and one pipe coming out of the other end) then your problem is not with the radiator! or perhaps would need a good cleaning and there maybe a hole behind it. Peter Grech, GBOC

Question #767: Where can I find a black rectangular fuse box that holds the larger tube fuses to put into an electrical box in back of an older apartment building? Post your answer

Answer: You need to speak to an electrician, or call an electrical supply house. Glen Stoltz

Question #766: How do I get keys for a new tenant's mailbox. The previous tenant was evicted & didn't leave them. Post your answer

Answer: If there are no keys left, you will have to get the lock changed. In most buildings this is something the super will take care of, start by asking him who can do it and will you be charged for it (again, in some buildings there will be a charge, in others, no). Glen Stoltz

Question #756: I thought I remember reading somewhere that window air conditioner installations now require a support bracket along the top of the unit so that the window is still operable. I have searched the NYC websites, but could not find verification. Can anyone confirm this? Post your answer

Answer: Yes, there is a law which is tacked on to Local Law 11. It is under Appurtenances only. You will not find it under Air Conditioning. Basically it states that an appurtenance, such as an Air Conditioning unit, that extends 10 inches or more past the window glass, must be supported by a bracket that is secured to the ac unit on one end and rests against the side of the building at the other end. If the unit is less the 10 inches past the glass, it may be installed by using a metal bar across the width of the window and secured to the window frame, but not the window itself. As always, check with your buildings architect about this. Peter Grech, GBOC

Question #750: We have child safety bars installed in our apartment windows and when we requested that they be removed to accommodate an air conditioner we were told they cannot be removed once they are in. We don't have children and we weren't told when we moved in that they couldn't be removed. Is this true? Are there any other options to have them removed? Post your answer

Answer: Yes Peter is correct, they can be removed, child window guards are installed with one way screws, to avoid removal by the tenant. There are a couple of ways to remove the screws. They sell special one way screw drivers for such screws, or you can use a cold chisel to remove the heads of the screws, remove the child guard and then use vise grip pliers to remove the rest of the screw. Good luck Roberto Cardona

Answer: Whoever said they cannot be removed once they have been installed, is mistaken. The purpose of child guards are to protect young children. If you no longer have young children, then the guards can be removed. There is no such rule / code / law saying that once they are installed, they stay installed, even though there are no children living in the apartment. Peter Grech, GBOC

Question #741: What is the generally accepted useful life of the following components of a buildings (in this case 16 stories 110 apartments) heating plant:

Fuel Tank
Burner
Boiler
Vacuum Pump
Heat Timer

Post your answer

Answer: The state Division of Housing and Community Renewal, DHCR has a schedule of useful life that they use when owners of buildings apply for a major capital improvements (MCI). For fuel tanks: in vaults - 25 yrs underground - 20 yrs. For Burners - 20 years. For boilers; Cast Iron - 35 yrs Steel Boilers - 25 Yrs. As stated below, any numbers are just estimates and greatly depend on the maintenance program being applied. Peter Grech, GBOC

Answer: A fuel tank (20-40 years) has a wide spread in useful life span, depending on type of fuel, below or above ground, and proper maintenance. It is essential that a tank be properly cleaned every 5-7 years, to remove corrosive sludge and moisture, that tends to build up on the bottom of the tank. A burner (20-30 years) varies, depending on type of oil and size. Larger burners, more often, tend to be rebuilt or upgraded, rather then total replacement. For instance, blower motors, relay controls, metering pumps, electric heaters, etc. are replaceable parts, that do get replaced on an ongoing basis. Boilers (5-60 years) Your building probably has a steel "Fire Tube" boiler. These, with proper ongoing tube cleaning and replacement, a proper and comprehensive water treatment regime, have been known to last over 60 years. I have seen some cast iron "sectional" boilers last as little as 5 years due to poor water management and return leaks. (return leaks allow for constant water make up, the fresh water is full of oxygen. The released excess oxygen literally rusts out the cast iron sections) Vacuum pumps, (5-15 years) vacuum pumps have motors, sometimes the motor fails, sometimes the pump fails, and the entire unit is replaced. Proper maintenance of steam traps and strainers are crucial in the long life of a vacuum pump. Heat Timer (10-30 years) The old electromechanical type were work horses, and relatively simple. Other then a motor or contact burning out, they lasted a very long time. The newer electronic type, while offering enhanced versatility and power, have not been around long enough, but if I were a betting man I would put my money on the older type as far as longevity. As an energy saving measure, Heat-Timer units should be re-calibrated by a factory rep every 5 years or so. It must also be noted, any of the above, often last longer then I indicated, under the management of a devoted and knowledgeable superintendent. Bill Aristovulos

Question #739: I would like to move a closet wall within my apartment. I have gotten approval, but there is a phone riser / cable to contend with. How does one get a phone riser / cable moved about 1 1/2 feet? Post your answer

Answer: Not a quick answer. First you need to check if it is a functional riser, is it still in use? Next, who is responsible for it's maintenance, probably Verizon. In some buildings though, it is owned by the building outright, and they are responsible for it's upkeep. Once you have ascertained it is a functional riser, you will need to get a proposal to "relocate" it. Be warned this is usually a relatively "pricey" quote! Bear in mind, that first, the technician has to establish a temporary "jumper cable" to continue service to residents above. Then he/she will have to route (including possible costly channeling in the concrete) the new cable around to the new location, establish junction boxes/points above and below, and finally splice in anywhere from 50 to 200 individual wires (depending on the cable size). This usually is in the cost range of several thousand dollars, plus. In the last dozen or so sites I have been involved with dealing with telephone and intercom riser relocation, the residents have simply opted to "box" around the cables (with a removable, service allowing enclosure). This was preferable to the cost, and one last issue, the responsibility, for any future problems that may "arise" in that "riser". Bill Aristovulos

Question #733: Can I replace Steam Return Pipes with PVC pipes. The pipes that I have seem to be rotting away I figure that the pipes only carry hot water? Post your answer

Answer: Never use plastic piping on a steam system! Even CPVC which is rated at a higher temp/pressure than PVC should not be used. There is a chance with failed traps that steam will get into the return piping and erode the plastic. It is never ever recommended to use any plastic piping on steam systems. Joe Lambert, http://www.leonardpowers.com

Question #732: I have 12 high sodium lights that go on and off as they please, what I should I do, change the ballast? Post your answer

Answer: Either the ballasts or the bulbs themselves, or both should be changed. Try a bulb first, if that doesn't work, try the ballast.

Question #723: I live in an 80 year old upper Westside co-op building of 38 units. Although the building is well taken care of, the Board of Directors is about to snake out the waste lines in order to allow for the use of dishwashers. We have had opinions on both sides about this issue and but would like your opinion as to risks involved. It seems to me that trying to remove the scale of 80 years within these pipes might very well cause leaks and full fledged breaks. What is your opinion? Post your answer

Answer: A dishwasher in an apartment is a great sales incentive and increases the value of the property, so yes, snaking COULD cause leaks and full fledged breaks but it may be worth it. Of course anything can happen. The vibration from the snaking machine alone inside the pipes could aggravate weaknesses in some 80 year old pipes. Proper venting is very important also, especially when expecting an increase in volume that comes from using additional appliances, so make sure that is looked at as well as making sure the existing vents are not at all clogged. Weighing the pros and cons properly may well show that the benefits exceed the risks. Make sure that everyone who will participate in making the decision understands both sides. Also that it is spelled out who will be paying for damages, should they occur. Glen Stoltz

Answer: It is my opinion that the snaking of the pipes to remove scale and such should be done every ten years or so, as a good preventive measure. To do this after so many years may cause leaks, not because the snaking would cause damage to pipes, but rather the removing of the build up would expose old cracks or weakened points, that the build up protected. More of a concern should be that the pipes were not originally designed to carry this extra load and backing up of suds and water may occur in some lower apartments from the drain lines, again MAY OCCUR. You can't stop progress. Peter Grech, GBOC

Question #721: I live in an apartment building co-op and would like to cover the steam riser pipe in my bathroom, what can I use? Post your answer

Answer: Read the answer to Question #653, a similar question. Glen Stoltz

Question #718: Should the blower on a Jenn-Air downdraft range be degreased? Does the blower have to be removed? Mine is slow to start working but runs well after it gets started off to a very slow start. How would you do this? Post your answer

Answer: Please see question #710 below. By their purpose, I would think the fan blades would need regular degreasing. Going further, I also think the blower motor itself might need servicing, possibly lubricating the blower motor would help, otherwise you might need to replace the motor itself. Bill Aristovulos

Question #713: What happens when using metal nails with copper valleys? Post your answer

Answer: Since these last three questions (713, 712, 711) are referring to roofing techniques, I assume we are talking about roofing copper valleys. The metal nails you refer would work fine, if the metal they were made of was copper. However problems arise when using steel nails on copper sheeting or flashing. The steel nails and copper actually combine to form an electrical "battery" of sorts. The moisture in the air adds the final ingredient, pretty soon the nails corrode due to a process called dielectric corrosion. The corroded nails eventually lead to physical roofing failure and leaks. Therefore, the only type of nails one should use on copper valleys, are copper nails or the new and exciting plastic composite nails. Bill Aristovulos

Question #712: How many inches of overlap must you overlap on end point of felt paper when roofing? Post your answer

Answer: You should overlap felt paper at least 4", more, if it is a flat roof. Bill Aristovulos

Question #710: I received a Jenn-Air Gas Stove top (downdraft) from a family friend. The installation instructions I was given did not have any information about the duct requirements or how to vent it. Can you please assist me? Thank you. Post your answer

Answer: Jenn-Air appliances are sold, installed and serviced by Sears. Call Sears at 877-830-9177 to ask about installation of your specific product, or stop by a local Sears appliance store to inquire. Also, there is a little information on Sears' website (here) to get you started. Glen Stoltz

Question #709: I would like to know how often you have to flush your boiler in the summer. Also, why am I getting yellow colored water from the drain pipe? Post your answer

Answer: You did not give enough information on your boiler to give you a proper answer. The yellow color, however, is most likely rust from the piping. Some is normal, a lot is not good. For a big boiler, talk to your chemical guy, for a small residential boiler they do make some chemicals you can put into the boiler but most just live with it. Joe Lambert, http://www.leonardpowers.com

Question #690: In an 8 floor concrete slab construction building with plaster and lathe walls and 10 apartments on each floor, what is the best way to combat a recent MOUSE infestation? Post your answer

Answer: The best defense is: Plugging all the holes you can find! Pay particular attention to heat risers in the apartments. Also check, in kitchens and baths, around utility lines (Water, Gas and Electric ) where they emerge from the wall. Mice posses what seems to be an articulated skeletal design, that allows them squeeze through openings of only 1/2 inch high! Poisons are also a way to deal with mice, however I strongly suggest using a professional company. (One of our vendor members in STA, are professional exterminators. You can scan for their ad in our newsletter, SUPER!) Bill Aristovulos

Question #689: I have to try to take a small amount of dried oil-based paint (dark gray) off of a light colored carpet - any suggestions? Post your answer

Answer: Try Goof-Off. It's a paint remover in liquid form - you can also get in an aerosol can. Follow the directions on the package and use adequate ventilation. After that, rinse the spots with warm water and soap, then use a carpet cleaning machine over the entire area if you have access to one. Glen Stoltz

Question #683: I am a maintenance supervisor for an apartment complex. I have a second floor unit that is getting too hot in the winter - so hot that they have had to use their heat very little. It routinely gets into the upper 70's in the apartment when it is cold outside. Is it possible the duct work of the apartment below may be leaking hot air into the crawl space between the apartments thereby heating up their apartment? (The heating and a/c for these apartments are controlled by individual heat pumps). Post your answer

Answer: Many things are possible. I ran into on similar situation in an overheated apartment with the valves shut to all the heaters. It turns out the risers in the wall were the cause. We found this out by actually measuring the temperature of the walls with a non-contact IR thermometer. You may wish to try this. Joe Lambert, http://www.leonardpowers.com

Answer: I have seen once where the steam risers in a wall were overheating an apartment even with the valve shut to the fan unit, this rarely occurs with lower temperature hot water. I would first check temperatures of the walls to see where the heat is coming from. Joe Lambert, http://www.leonardpowers.com

Question #675: The landlord follows NYC Heat Guidelines. However, upper floors do not read 68 degrees 6am-10pm. Yesterday my apartment read 72 degrees @ 8:30pm. The apartment on the sixth floor read 60 degrees. I assume that there is not enough pressure or it's the pipes. Does the DOB get involved with this type of problem, or does it require an outside inspector? You can probably notice by my info that I am not familiar with boilers. Post your answer

Answer: This is a common problem in many buildings, commonly called heat balancing. Since the steam comes from the basement, the lower floors heat up before the upper ones. The solution is NOT to increase the pressure (actually decreasing the pressure often helps solve the problem). Your building may need to calibrate the heating controller, new zoning valves, or to install thermostatic radiator valves on the lower floors to allow the steam to get to the upper floors while not overheating the lower ones, or there could be a piping issue with some of the risers not draining properly. There are many steam specialty companies in the city (including the one I work for) that can diagnose the problem and give recommendations. It is not something that has a quick fix or can be solved on-line without looking at the exact situation in your building. Joe Lambert, http://www.leonardpowers.com

Question #661: What tools are needed to snake a drain in order to find the pathway? Post your answer

Answer: Working under a kitchen sink you would need a plastic drop cloth beneath the sink, a channel lock to remove the waste line, a wrench to remove the "U" trap and a good flashlight or droplight to look inside the nipple. The "pathway" is only a few inches past the nipple and be sure to bend the head of the snake just a little in order to enter the pathway. Same goes for the bathroom. For best results use an electric snake. Roberto Cardona

Question #651: I would like to know from where can I get a centrifugal license, and a lead painting license? I recently applied for a job and they mentioned these requirements. Post your answer

Answer: There is no such thing as a centrifugal license in NYC. I think you are referring to the refrigeration license which covers, among many things, centrifugal machines. That you have to go to Fire Department for. It takes an average of two years to study and prepare for the two tests to obtain it. The certificate for lead, or the Safe Work Practices for lead, can be obtained by taking a class at HPD. Peter Grech, GBOC

Question #650: Can anyone tell me where to find replacement pins for a heat timer, it's an AMF Paragon timer. Post your answer

Answer: You can buy these through my company, we are a full service steam specialty company based here in New York City. However, these are standard parts offered by many electrical distributors (you can use G&G electrical at 212-243-0051). This is an older style controller and you may be interested in upgrading, if so give me a call. Joe Lambert, http://www.leonardpowers.com

Answer: Those are tough pins to get. Try a good electrical contractor store. Or ask you boiler mechanic to get them for you. Peter Grech, GBOC

Question #648: Does anyone know for sure whether raising or lowering the steam set point during heating will conserve more fuel. For some reason I seem to use less fuel when raising the set point from 5psi to 6.5psi. However I don't know if my readings are that true. Post your answer

Answer: Steam pressure has very little to do with the cost of heating a building. It is the AMOUNT of steam that the building uses that effects the cost. That being said, it does take less BTU's to product lower pressure steam than higher, so there is a small savings there. Now, get this, buildings HEAT FASTER and USE LESS STEAM at LOW PRESSURES. Even 5 psig seems high. With the proper piping and equipment, you can get more comfortable and better heating with 3 psig or below!! It is strange but true. Joe Lambert, http://www.leonardpowers.com

Question #639: I live in a pre-war Queens Co-op, and I have two questions about the operation of the radiators. First, the radiators (which are inside the walls behind radiator covers) seem to be too large in terms of capacity for the rooms. When there is steam in them, they overheat the room. Is there anything I can do to limit the extent they fill with steam or in some other way dampen them without turning them off? Second, the windows over the valve end of the radiators collect moisture on them when the value hisses. Does this mean that the radiators are not operating properly? Post your answer

Answer: It sounds like you have a one-pipe steam system. If you do, it is that valve that is 'hissing' that actually controls the amount of steam in the radiator. These air vents let air out of the radiator and allow the steam to flow in. If you do not let the air out, the steam cannot flow in and you can't control the heat. They make automatic air vents that open and close based on the temperature of the room and they also make variable venting ones that you can control by hand. Since they do vent the air in the radiator, and there is steam and water there, too, it is normal that the air that comes out is moist. If it is pure hot steam coming out, time to get a new vent. Joe Lambert, http://www.leonardpowers.com

Question #635: Does anyone know of a good technical book on the operations of 'Icecap / Islandaire' through-the-wall a/c & heating units? Post your answer

Answer: Call Islandaire at 1-800-886-2759, speak to Richard Nuss at ext. 141. He can help you with I&O manuals. Jeff Eichenwald

Answer: Good luck with those two units. Their reputation is not a good one. But then, most through the wall units are not as good as the cheap simple window units. There is NO book on those units. There is however a operation pamphlet that should come with each unit showing operations and maintenance issues. Call the manufacturer or perhaps you can find them on line. Peter Grech, GBOC

The original questioner responds: I have Islandaire and Icecap thru-the-wall units in my building. These a/c units work in conjunction with the existing heating coils. Previously all the buildings I have worked in have had the heating coils above the unit so that when the fan is operated, air is blown through the coil and hot air heats the apartments. In my new building the set up is different. The heating coil is below, so when the fan is operated, air is supposedly sucked through the heated coil. However this does not appear to be efficient with very lukewarm air emitting from the top of the unit. Have these units been incorrectly installed?

Question #634: My landlord recently replaced the radiators with a copper pipe (that has a copper pipe arm branching off it) that is supposed to heat the apartment with hot water. It is not working yet. I can't see how it will ever work. It looks so flimsy. The copper arms have plugs at the ends so I don't know how the hot water is supposed to fill them. Has anyone heard of this system? We are freezing. Post your answer

Answer: The system you speak of, if I understand you correctly, is called a hydronic system. The hydronic system works well as long as installation is done correctly. To have water enter into a coil or fin is common but there has to be a second pipe leaving the coil/fin to keep the water moving through the coil/fin. Water can not just enter and stay. Make sure that there is only one pipe, then report it to the landlord. Keep in mind, water is not the same as steam. With steam you need venting all the time - as opposed to water which only needs to be vented when air is trapped. Also, no heating system beats the old fashion cast iron radiators. They are simple and the best heat exchanger. Lastly, if your apartment is below 68 degrees F when it is below 55 degrees outside during the hours of 6 am to 10 pm call 311 - if the landlord won't do anything about the problem. Peter Grech, GBOC

Question #614: Is there a formula whereby one can determine how much ventilation is needed in a boiler room? We have one high and one low opening now. Post your answer

Answer: I am not an expert on the fire side of the boiler, but rather the steam side. However I have done some projects with air intake fans for boiler rooms. There is a size determined by the boiler horsepower and type of boiler. Of course with fans (forced air intake) the opening is MUCH smaller. A good place to start is this article on the National Board's Web site: http://www.nationalboard.org/NationalBoard/Articles/Classics/classic17.aspx Joe Lambert, joe@leonardpowers.com http://www.leonardpowers.com

Question #612: I have a 3 family unit. There is a forced air heating and cooling system in the lower level apartment (where I will live). The system is from the 1970s. I want the tenants to control & pay for their own heating/cooling. I need to upgrade the old 1970 system. Do I have to buy 3 separate systems in order for the tenants to be separate? Or, can all three units feed off one system & have separate meters? The alternative - is it to use baseboard heating in the tenants' apartments? I am looking to do what is best in the long run financially. Post your answer

Answer: The only way to be able to fairly bill tenants for heat usage is to have three separate units installed.